- How many coats of plaster are needed for a professional finish?
- How can you get tiles to stick to plywood?
- Why are the skirting boards not flush at the joints?
- How do I easily remove Artex?
- Is it normal for a tradesman to require an upfront deposit before starting a job?
- When is the best time to fit the toilet – before or after tiling?
- Plastering or skirting fitting, which comes first?
- Can you tile over old tiles?
- How smooth is the result of a professional skimming?
- How long does it take on average for a loft conversion?
- How to paint over new plaster?
- Is it a common practice to use plastic pipes instead of metal ones?
- Can plaster be partially removed from a wall and re-applied?
A: For a perfect finish one should always apply 2 coats of plaster. In rare cases it is ok for a professional plasterer to use single coat. For example, in old houses, where a rustic look is deliberately sought, a single-coat plaster might work wonders. In general, however, you should always demand that your professional plasterer uses minimum 2 coats.
A: This one is tricky. Reputable tile adhesive manufacturers always recommend that plywood surfaces are meticulously prepared before using their products. For this purpose first a latex based bonding solution is applied in order to seal the plywood. On top of it a professional tiler would always apply a flexible cement based adhesive. In such cases it is extremely important to make sure the plywood is thick and rigid enough.
A: The truth is there are so many things that can go wrong when installing skirting boards that it is quite hard to pinpoint the issue. In many cases the reason is a combination of things gone wrong. One obvious reason might be that the skirting itself is curled. In this case a special cutting technique should be used to compensate for the gap. Another reason for uneven joints might be an uneven plastering job that might push the bottom of the skirting board away from the wall, thus creating a gap. Finally, the installer might have done a poor job cutting the boards, but in this case the solution is easy – find a real professional.
A: Here you have to be very careful, because some old Artex finishes may contain asbestos, which is extremely toxic. The safest and quickest solution is to either use overboard or plaster over it. This way you will not have to sand it and risk health hazard. In any case, testing the Artex for asbestos content is a very good idea.
A: In most cases building jobs require an upfront investment by the tradesman. Materials need to be purchased, a project plan prepared, external services arranged, and workers should be assigned to the job. In order to proceed the tradesman needs some assurance that the client is seriously invested into the project and won’t cancel it and leave the tradesman with a hefty bill. In this sense, an upfront deposit should not bother clients when it is formalized in a written contract.
A: If you want a nice, professional finish, you should always tile first.
A: Always plaster first and fit skirting after. Best-case scenario for a perfect finish would be to plaster, skim, and paint first and fit skirting after everything else is done.
A: It is always better for the old tiles to be removed, prepare the surface and then install the new ones. You can certainly tile over old tiles if they are stuck firmly to the floor/wall, but the old tiles must be thoroughly cleaned and high quality tile on tile adhesive applied.
A: In almost 99% of the skimming jobs, a light sanding will be needed prior to painting. If the service you’re using is only skimming and you decide to paint by yourself, there will eventually be a need for a bit of sanding done by you. But any other imperfections are entirely up to the plasterer who did your wall. Depending on the arrangement the sanding can also be done by the plasterer in order to leave you only with the job of painting. The thing is, several hours have to pass for the wall to dry and then the sanding can begin.
A: No one can say in advance how much it would precisely take before getting familiar with the project – e.g the construction, windows, steel work etc., but it usually takes between 3 to 8 weeks.
A: For best results we recommend the application of a mist coat prior to the painting itself. You can purchase such from any DIY store, but in general any water based emulsion or light colour paint will do the trick. What you should do is to simply mix the paint with water in a bucket and after that apply it with a large brush or a roller, whatever suits you best. Once you’re all done with that all that is left is to apply the desired paint and enjoy.
A: Plastic pipes are used more and more nowadays because they are much cheaper, easier and faster to fit than copper ones. Copper pipes are still used mainly on boilers and heating systems.
A: It is not recommended to do so, but in some cases it is possible. The thing is, it has to be done gently. Take your time in the process of removing the damaged plaster as you don’t want to damage the good part of the wall. Once done, treat the bricks and the edges of the existing plaster with a PVA/water mix. The best choice to fill the hole with will be Thistle Hardwall; after the new plaster is applied wait about an hour for the material to harden. Once the material is hard enough, scrap a bit to achieve a proper depth for the finishing plaster to be applied. The last one should go up to the level of the existing good plaster and you’re done.